FAQs — Porcelain Paving
General Porcelain Paving Questions
1.What is porcelain paving, how is it manufactured, and what distinguishes vitrified porcelain paving?
Porcelain paving is made from a refined clay and mineral mixture, which includes feldspar, quartz, and kaolin. This mixture is pressed and then fired at extremely high temperatures, usually above 1200°C. The high firing temperature ensures the tiles are vitrified, resulting in a dense, hard, and impermeable material with low porosity. This process is why porcelain pavers are so durable and resistant to staining and frost damage and such a good choice for a garden patio. Find out more on the London Stone blog by reading how porcelain paving is made.
2.What are the benefits and positive aspects of choosing porcelain paving slabs?
Choosing porcelain has many advantages, including its contemporary appeal, diversity in colours and textures, low-maintenance nature, affordability, and consistent colour, size, and texture. It doesn't require sealing. Find out more by reading our blog on the top ten reasons why porcelain pavers are an excellent choice for a patio.
3.What is the durability and lifespan of porcelain paving?
Porcelain is baked at high temperatures that cause the ingredients to fuse together into an impervious glass like material. Because of this vitrifying process, porcelain that has been properly installed will last for well over 30 years. That's why London Stone are very confident to offer a 10 year guarantee on all of our Porcelain products.
4.What is the difference between porcelain slabs and porcelain tiles?
The manufacturing process for porcelain paving and porcelain tiles is the same. The difference lies in the thickness: porcelain units under 20mm thickness are classified as tiles. While some may refer to outdoor porcelain products as tiles or garden tiles, the correct term for porcelain designed for outdoor use is paving. We advise that porcelain for outdoor use should be at least 20mm thick.
5.What are the disadvantages of outdoor porcelain tiles? What should you avoid with porcelain tiles?
Whilst porcelain has many advantages over other paving materials, there are some drawbacks. The installation costs of a porcelain patio are generally higher than with other paving materials and there is also the perception that Porcelain lacks the natural appearance and weathering characteristics of other paving materials like stone and clay.
6.Where do I start with a porcelain patio?
There are lots of factors to consider when thinking about whether to choose a porcelain patio, but because the costs for the various paving materials available are relatively comparable, the advice we always give to our customers is that they choose something that they like the look of. To help our clients in making this decision, there are numerous inspiration galleries of finished garden projects on our website.
7.Does porcelain paving vary in colour?
Porcelain is a manufactured material, so its colour is intentionally created to appear a certain way. This ensures colour consistency within the same batches. Variation in colour will exist though between different batches of porcelain, so we strongly advise against mixing batches in a single project. Different sizes are also manufactured in separate batches, so we don't recommend mixing different sizes on the same patio or project.
8.Is each slab of a porcelain product exactly the same?
It would be very dull if each piece of porcelain paving looked the same. Our Italian suppliers design the surface and texture of porcelain so that it looks unique and authentic. Depending on the range and product, there can be as many as 20 unique patterns for each porcelain product before any pattern repetition occurs. When the product aims to mimic the look of natural stone, this assortment of patterns contributes to a more authentic and varied appearance once installed, whilst still maintaining a consistent overall colour and texture.
Questions About Buying and Laying Porcelain Paving
1.Where to buy porcelain pavers?
Landscaping your garden is a big investment, with paving materials often accounting for a large chunk of the budget. This is why we always encourage customers to view a wide range of paving options before finalising their choice. London Stone has 11 showrooms across the country where you can see our materials in real-life settings. Additionally, our consultants are on hand to provide specialised advice to help you make the best decision.
2.Where can I view porcelain paving near me?
If you're interested in viewing quality porcelain paving, London Stone boasts 10 showrooms throughout the United Kingdom. Our showrooms are professionally designed and expertly installed, offering not just inspiration for material selection but also insights into best practice installation methods. Plus, you'll have the chance to discuss your project with our expert sales team. Locate your nearest showroom and visit us today.
3.Is porcelain paving expensive?
Prices were high when porcelain first entered the UK market, but as its popularity has grown, more suppliers have entered the market which has led to more competitive pricing. Recognising that clients have varied budgets, London Stone offers a diverse range of materials at various price points and levels of quality to ensure there's a porcelain option to suit any budget. Browse our collections and get inspired.
4.Is porcelain paving more expensive to lay?
The installation of porcelain paving can be more expensive because of additional installation steps such as priming the back of the pavers, a process not typically needed with other types of paving materials. The hardness of porcelain also makes it more difficult to cut, so specialised bench cutting equipment needs to be bought or hired.
5.What is the estimated cost per square metre for laying a porcelain patio, including the materials and installation?
Clients often ask about the cost to lay a porcelain patio. It's a tough one to answer because landscaper rates vary, as do the rates across different areas of the country. Based on our research, the going rate for porcelain installation ranges from £200 to £300 per square metre, which usually covers labour, materials, and waste disposal. We always advise to get more than one quote for comparison. London Stone provides a directory of landscape contractors, giving you the option to access a list of reputable landscapers in your area.
6.What is the labour cost for laying a porcelain patio?
Based on our experience, most reputable landscaping contractors will not quote a project based on labour charges alone. Reputable firms typically offer a fixed quotation that covers labour, all associated materials, and waste disposal. To find a reputable landscaper in your area visit London Stone Connect.
7.As a patio material, how does porcelain generally compare to natural stone and specifically to sandstone and Indian sandstone?
Porcelain paving is manufactured from refined clays and minerals and fired at high temperatures for unrivalled durability. Porcelain is non-porous, resistant to stains, frost, and water damage, and typically requires very little maintenance. The manufacturing process allows for a consistent colour and texture, and modern porcelain even replicates the look of natural materials, such as wood and stone.
Stone paving is a natural material quarried straight from the ground which gives each piece a distinctive pattern and texture. Sawn sandstone paving for example has a naturally porous surface and usually requires sealing to prevent staining and reduce maintenance. Despite this, when correctly maintained and installed, sandstone paving will still last for decades and will weather and change with time which is one of the benefits of natural stone. In deciding between porcelain and natural stone, you should consider factors like maintenance requirements, budget, and what style of garden you hope to create. Porcelain offers a more uniform appearance and ease of care, while natural stone offers more character and variation in colour and texture.
Questions about How Porcelain Performs Outdoors
1.Does porcelain paving fade?
The colour of porcelain paving will not fade over time. During the manufacturing process, the materials, including colour pigments, are all baked together at extremely high temperatures. This high-heat process leads to vitrification, where all of the raw materials fuse together to create a strong and highly durable material. The vitrification process locks in the colour, maintaining the porcelain's intended colour for years to come.
2.Are porcelain slabs slippery?
There's a misconception that because of its association with glossy interior tiles, porcelain paving is slippery. Outdoor porcelain slabs have been specifically manufactured with surface textures that mimic tried and tested natural stone surface textures, such as sandblasting, flamed and bush hammered, that meet safety standards for outdoor use. Meeting British Standards for external paving, outdoor porcelain slabs come with a minimum slip rating of R11. This makes them comparable to natural stone paving in terms of safety, even in areas that are prone to becoming wet and slippery, guaranteeing a reliable and safe outdoor surface.
3.Can porcelain pavers be used for a driveway?
Yes, porcelain is suitable for high-traffic areas, such as driveways. The most important consideration is the sub-base—it must be accurately installed and should be at least 200mm in depth. Compacting the sub-base in layers of 50mm is also crucial to eliminate any unstable pockets that the vehicle weight could expose, leading to cracking of the paving. It's also important to pay close attention to the mortar bed, ensuring there are no voids that could compromise the paving's integrity. While porcelain is generally more stain resistant than most paving materials, choosing darker colours for your driveway can help in concealing dirt, tire marks, and oil stains.
4.Does porcelain paving scratch?
Porcelain's density makes it highly scratch resistant, so the usual concerns about dragging chairs and garden furniture across your patio that come with stone are lessened. However, if porcelain does get scratched, the mark tends to be more permanent, without the natural weathering process that gradually diminishes scratches in stone. That's why opting for full-bodied porcelain, where the colour runs through the entire body of the tile, is always recommended. With full-bodied porcelain, any scratches that do occur will be less noticeable, as the exposed colour will match the surface colour.
5.How resistant are porcelain pavers to chipping and cracking?
Porcelain is highly durable once installed, and it would take a hard impact from a heavy object to chip it. Porcelain is most vulnerable to damage during transportation and handling. That's why our suppliers take various precautions to minimise the risk of chipping, such as wrapping the slabs in cardboard and protecting the corners. Porcelain is also prone to shock damage, so it's essential to handle it carefully and avoid knocking the slabs against each other.
6.Are porcelain slabs/pavers/paving frost-proof?
The exceptionally low porosity of porcelain, which can be as minimal as 0.01% means that it absorbs virtually zero moisture. This lack of absorption removes the risk of water penetrating the slabs, which in natural stone materials can freeze, expand, and cause cracking and delamination of the paving surface. The most significant risk of frost damage to porcelain paving comes from using porous brush-in resin jointing compounds. These can allow water to get underneath the slabs, potentially causing them to lift during freeze-thaw cycles. To prevent this, it's crucial to choose non-porous jointing materials. Find out more about our recommended pointing materials for porcelain.
7.Do porcelain pavers get hot in the sun?
Like most paving materials, porcelain can absorb heat when exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time but not anymore than other paving materials. The biggest factor with any material, porcelain, stone, or even composite decking absorbing heat is the colour. Darker colour materials will always absorb heat more quickly, so if this is something that concerns you, we would recommend choosing a light-coloured porcelain.
Practical and Technical Questions
1.How much do porcelain pavers weigh?
We supply various porcelain ranges from different manufacturers, so the weights can vary. The weight of porcelain can be an essential factor for customers working on areas where load is a concern, such as balconies and roof terraces. On average, our porcelain weighs 25kg per m2. For exact weights, we encourage customers to visit the product pages on our website and check the specifications and dimensions section.
2.Do porcelain paving slabs need to be sealed?
Paving becomes stained when moisture carrying dirt is absorbed into the pores of the materials. Unlike some natural stone materials, porcelain paving is extremely dense and absorbs very little moisture, so it generally doesn't need to be sealed. There are certain situations though when your porcelain might need some extra protection. Any example of this might be a garden that experiences a lot of leaf fall, or there might be an area close to a barbecue that is prone to food being dropped. In these instances, porcelain can be sealed to provide that extra protection and it will mean that any stains are superficial and easier to clean. Use Dry Treat Premium Porcelain & Quartz sealer to seal porcelain and if you need further information, speak to a member of our team.
3.How to edge porcelain patio?
Adding an edge to any type of paving is a good way to provide contrast and definition. There are a huge of options available for edging porcelain to enhance its appearance. Setts and planks can create a visually striking contrast and stylishly frame your porcelain paving. There's a lot more to discover on this topic, which is why we wrote a detailed blog on how to edge porcelain.
4.Can you put pots on porcelain patio?
Porcelain is a hard, durable material that doesn't scratch easily, so from this point of view, there is no reason why you can't put pots on porcelain. The problem comes from water stains. Pots that have sat on top of paved areas for a long time can leave unsightly water marks on top of the paving which can be very difficult to remove. You can use pot feet and saucers, but these will also leave marks, so our advice would be not to keep anything on porcelain and if you have garden furniture, this should be moved and the paving underneath it cleaned as regularly as possible.
5.Can Porcelain be edge profiled?
London Stone are one of the only suppliers in the UK who offer an in-house bespoke service and we have pioneered many techniques to add edge profiles to porcelain. Theoretically, all porcelain can be edge profiled but the finish is dependent on the quality of the base material. Some of the cheaper oriental porcelains are not full-bodied and the finished texture and colour is only printed on the upper surface only. Trying to add an edge profile to a material that is not full-bodied results in a contrasting appearance between the surface texture and the freshly profiled edge. The superior European full-bodied porcelain tiles carry the surface colour through the entire thickness of the tile, so they can be bullnosed, pencil rounded or chamfered to a high standard of finish. See our porcelain steps and copings for our full range of edge profiles.
Questions About our Porcelain Ranges
1.Why are there so many different collections?
The essence of our approach is offering choice. With a vast array of porcelain products available, putting them all together in one large category would be overwhelming for customers. By segmenting them into relevant groups, we streamline the selection process. Customers seeking the finest quality can directly access our Luxury range. Those in search of competitively priced options might opt for our Project range or the Budget Italian range. And for those who prefer a big paver, the 800x800 and Large Format collections are readily identifiable. This organisation into sensible categories allows customers to quickly navigate our products and find what they're looking for.
2.What's the difference between Italian and Indian Porcelain?
The main difference between our Italian and Indian porcelain collections is in the internal structure of the material: our Italian porcelain is full-bodied, meaning the surface colour is consistent throughout the entire paver. In contrast, the surface colour of our Indian porcelain is only present on the top surface of the slab. The advantage of full-bodied material is that when edges are profiled, the colour of the freshly profiled edge remains uniform, matching the paver's top surface. Additionally, any scratches or chips, which fortunately are rare because of porcelain's durability, are less noticeable as they don't reveal a different colour. The Italian suppliers have also been manufacturing porcelain for a lot longer than the Indian suppliers, so the surface textures are more lifelike and of a better quality.
3.What's the most popular range?
Our collections are always evolving as we introduce new products, so the popularity of the ranges is quite fluid. However, if we had to choose, our top pick would be the Premium range, because of its extensive variety and choice of stone-textured porcelains like Jura and Florence. Explore our ranges here.
4.Are all the ranges available with steps and copings?
Yes, as experts in hard landscaping London Stone were the first supplier in the UK to truly understand the importance that steps and coping play in many garden schemes in the UK. Subsequently, we made it our mission to stock off the shelf steps and coping stones in most of our stone paving materials. We have followed the same route with porcelain by making steps and copings available across all the porcelain ranges.
5.Is maintenance the same across the different ranges?
Porcelain is low maintenance, and a jet wash and water is usually enough to remove most marks and get the porcelain looking pristine. We would recommend taking a bit more care with the lighter porcelains like Florence White and Slab Khaki and don't leave organic matter, like dead leaves, sitting on the paving for too long. Also consider that marks can show up more on dark colours. The darker grey colours are generally more forgiving as any marks don't show up as much.
6.Why does the Budget Italian and Premium Italian porcelain cost less than the Luxury range?
Our Luxury, Premium and Budget Italian ranges are all produced by the same supplier, in the same factory using the same manufacturing techniques, so this is a good question to ask. The premium and budget-conscious collections were made possible because they are only available in a limited range of colours, have less sophisticated surface textures and because they are manufactured exclusively for London Stone, have no company-wide marketing costs associated with them.
7.What's the most popular product across all the ranges?
There are a several products that really fly, but if we had to pick one that stands out, we'd choose Florence Grey. Florence Grey is inspired by Portuguese Limestone and because we developed the product alongside our Italian supply partners, we currently enjoy worldwide exclusivity on all the products in the Florence range.
8.Can you do bespoke in the different ranges?
Our in-house bespoke production facility is manned by a team of highly skilled and experienced fabricators and masons. Whether you need custom-sized steps, paving, coping, curved cuts, or core drilling in porcelain, our knowledgeable team can handle it all. They are well-versed in porcelain's properties and performance. We've also pioneered our own techniques to create chunky 40mm downstands and 36mm thick bullnoses, both of which are firsts in the UK landscape industry. Contact us with your bespoke porcelain requirements and we'll do the rest.
Questions about Porcelain Installation
1.What are the steps for properly laying porcelain paving slabs for outdoor patios or gardens?
Porcelain slabs are laid in the same way as natural stone paving, with a few differences. When laying porcelain, it is essential to paint the underside of the slabs with slurry primer to ensure complete adhesion of slabs to the mortar, a step not always necessary with natural stone. Porcelain is also more difficult to cut, and you will need to purchase specialist diamond tipped porcelain blades for your cutting equipment. Because porcelain is fully rectified, meaning that unlike natural stone, there is no dimensional tolerance, we recommend that tile spacers are used to achieve a consistent jointing gap. We have written extensive literature on this subject, for further information, read our quick guide to laying porcelain slabs.
2.How long before I can walk on porcelain slabs?
The mortar bed needs time to cure, so after porcelain has been installed, we recommend that you should wait at least 24 hours before walking on it.
3.What is the estimated cost per square metre for laying a porcelain patio, including the materials and installation?
Clients often ask about the cost to lay a porcelain patio. It's a tough one to answer because landscaper rates vary, as do the rates across different areas of the country. Based on our research, the going rate for porcelain installation ranges from £200 to £300 per square metre, which usually covers labour, materials, and waste disposal. We always advise to get more than one quote for comparison. London Stone provides a directory of landscape contractors, giving you the option to access a list of reputable landscapers in your area.
4.What is the labour cost for laying a porcelain patio?
Based on our experience, most reputable landscaping contractors will not quote a project based on labour charges alone. Reputable firms typically offer a fixed quotation that covers labour, all associated materials, and waste disposal. To find a reputable landscaper in your area visit London Stone Connect.
Specialist Porcelain Installation Questions
1.Can you lay porcelain slabs without slurry?
Laying porcelain slabs without a slurry primer is a huge no. Porcelain is a dense material with low porosity, which means without a slurry primer, the bedding mortar will not adhere to the underside of the slab. To mitigate against the lack of porosity in porcelain, the slurry primer acts as a bond bridge between the underside of the paver and the mortar bed. It is possible to make your own slurry primer on site by mixing cement, water and SBR but we would strongly recommend that you purchase a specialist pre-mixed product like Larsen Streetscape PS Primer.
2.Why are my porcelain slabs lifting?
There are several reasons why porcelain paving slabs might lift. The most common issue is that the slabs have not adhered properly to the bedding layer. This could be due to the slabs not being adequately primed or the bedding layer lacking sufficient moisture, or the slabs not being settled firmly enough into the bedding layer. These problems often become apparent during winter when sharp frosts cause water to seep between the bedding layer and the paving; this water then freezes and expands, leading to the lifting of the slabs. Additionally, ground heave is another potential cause, which can occur on clay substrates after extended periods of hot weather.
3.Can porcelain paving be installed on pedestals?
Yes. Porcelain is a very strong material. A 600x600x20mm tile will happily sit on a pedestal system without a central support pedestal, unlike most natural stone of the same thickness. For some of the larger sizes like 1200x600 & 800x800 we would always recommend using a central support pedestal. Porcelain is used with a pedestal system extensively on roof terraces and other areas that are subject to weight restrictions.
4.Can porcelain pavers be laid on sand?
Porcelain paving cannot be laid on sand as there is no adhesive property to bind the slabs to the sand, leading to potential movement and instability over time. For the proper installation techniques, please refer to our comprehensive installation guide.
5.Should porcelain pavers be installed over concrete?
Yes, porcelain paving can be laid on top of a concrete base. Interior porcelain tiles are usually laid on a concrete base and porcelain paving, apart from the thickness, are identical to interior porcelain tiles. Builders who are experienced in laying interior tiles on concrete bases will often use the same method if they are laying an outdoor patio. Landscapers, in our experience will use the traditional paving method of an MOT sub-base, mortar bed and primed slabs.
6.How should porcelain slabs be laid on a concrete base?
When laying porcelain paving on a concrete slab, it's important to have a flat surface with the correct falls to facilitate water runoff. Any imperfections or dips in the slab should be filled with a self-levelling compound. Spread exterior tile adhesive evenly using a notched trowel before placing the porcelain paver on top. You may need to tap the paver down gently but if the concrete base is flat, the paver should find the correct level on its own. For a more comprehensive guide, please refer to our detailed installation document, that provides complete information on installing porcelain paving on a concrete slab.
7.Can you lay porcelain slabs on an existing patio?
In theory, it is possible to lay porcelain paving over an existing patio, but we do not recommend this approach. If laying on top of an existing subbase, the condition of the subbase is unknown, and any problems with the subbase could cause the new patio to fail. It is far better to do the job correctly by removing the existing paving, installing a new subbase, and then laying the porcelain slabs. This process ensures that your porcelain patio will stand the test of time.
8.What is the recommended thickness of mortar beds for porcelain paving?
For installing a porcelain patio, we advise using a mortar bed with a thickness ranging from 30 to 50mm. The recommended mortar mix ratio is 4 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement, and the mixture should have a semi-dry consistency.
9.What is the recommended gradient or fall for laying porcelain slabs to ensure proper drainage?
The British standards will soon be updating their guidance to state that the fall on porcelain paving should be 1:60, but we feel this is excessive and recommend that our products are installed with a 1:80 fall. For further information on how to incorporate falls into patios, read our detailed installation guide.
Questions about Grouting Porcelain
1.Is it possible to lay porcelain slabs without a gap, and is it necessary to grout outdoor porcelain tiles, or can they be installed with butt joints?
Porcelain paving, as with any type of paving, should not be laid butt jointed; there must always be a gap which should then be filled with a suitable jointing material. If the joints are not grouted, water can seep into the bedding layer and through freeze-thaw cycles, this water can expand and potentially cause the paving to lift.
2.What is the recommended joint size for porcelain paving slabs?
Based on our experience, the optimal joint width for porcelain paving is 5mm. A joint narrower than 5mm can result in weakened grout strength and integrity. Conversely, a joint wider than 5mm can draw attention to the jointing gaps rather than highlighting the beauty of the paving material itself.
3.What is the proper method for grouting a porcelain paving patio?
To find out more, read our comprehensive guide on grouting porcelain.
4.Which type of grout is considered the best for porcelain paving slabs?
There's a huge selection of jointing compounds available on the market, but not all of them are appropriate for use with outdoor porcelain. The chosen compound must be non-porous, which excludes options like GFTK, EasyJoint, and the other resin-based sweep-in compounds. While some contractors opt for cement based Flowpoint, which is acceptable, we recommend using exterior tile grout. Exterior tile grout has been designed specifically for use with porcelain which ensures optimal performance. Check out our full range of grouts.
Questions about Cutting Porcelain Slabs
1.What is the proper technique for cutting porcelain paving slabs to avoid chipping, and is it difficult to cut porcelain slabs?
The hardness of porcelain can pose a challenge when trying to achieve accurate and clean cuts: having the right cutting equipment is essential. One major challenge involves cutting the porcelain so that the edges don't become chipped and spalled. The best way to avoid this is by using a wet bench saw fitted with a continuous rim porcelain blade. The bench saw stabilises the paving to prevent movement during cutting, while the water cools the blade during cutting, facilitating a smooth cut. The continuous rim blade is specifically designed to ensure that the porcelain does not chip or spall, resulting in a clean and precise cut.
It's also good practice to sharpen the blade after every few cuts. This can be done by running the blade through a concrete block that exposes the new diamond grit on the blade. Tension also exists in porcelain because of the way it's manufactured. This can cause the slabs to crack during cutting. This can be overcome but cutting the two edges first and releasing the tension. Also make sure to wear eye and ear protection.
Questions about Maintaining a Porcelain Patio
1.Does porcelain paving require no maintenance, and are porcelain slabs or pavers resistant to staining?
There is no such thing as a maintenance-free patio and like any other surface material, porcelain can also stain. However, porcelain is lower maintenance than the majority of other paving options. With virtually zero-porosity, porcelain doesn't absorb stains easily and often a jet wash is all that's needed to return your patio to its original pristine condition. Any stains that do occur are likely to be superficial and they should clean up easily. One thing to be aware of with porcelain, especially with some of the lighter colours like Slab Khaki, is fallen leaves. Fallen leaves that are left on the paving for any length of time begin to break down and this can stain the paving and be difficult to move. Because of this, we advise that any fallen leaves on your patio are swept up as soon as is practically possible.
2.What are the best porcelain patio cleaners?
Because porcelain is a non-porous material, it generally doesn't require the use of patio cleaners for maintenance. Most stains are superficial and can be easily removed without specialized products. There are certain stains though that may require a specialist cleaner. Lithofin Outdoor Cleaner is designed to remove organic matter, so is the perfect product to remove those stubborn leaf stains. To remove cement or grout stains, we would recommend using Lithofin Builders Clean. When using any cleaning products, always follow the instructions on the packet and if you need any advice, contact a member of our team.
3.What is the best method for cleaning porcelain patio tiles and paving slabs?
Porcelain paving is one of the lowest maintenance paving materials you can buy. Often all that is needed is a jetwash or a broom and clean water. However, occasionally you might need a more targeted approach. We've written a blog that gives you all the information on how to clean a porcelain patio.
4.How to remove cement stains on porcelain paving?
If cement spills on your porcelain patio during installation, it's best to wipe it away before it dries. If it has already dried, gently scrape off large pieces with a wooden or plastic spatula—don't use metal as it may scratch the paving surface. Then, use a jet wash to remove any residual stains. If stains persist, apply Lithofin Builders Clean with a brush, let it sit for a few minutes, and jet wash it off. Avoid metal tools to prevent scratches and always follow product instructions when using chemical cleaners.
5.How to clean porcelain patio tiles after grouting?
After grouting porcelain paving, you might notice a fine white residue on the surface, known as grout haze. This is a common occurrence and not a cause for concern. In most cases, this residue can be removed with a jet wash and will quickly dissipate. If the grout haze is particularly stubborn, a chemical cleaning solution might be necessary. In such instances, we recommend using Lithofin Builders Clean. Always adhere to the instructions on the product packaging when using specialized cleaning products, and for further advice, don't hesitate to contact our team.
6.Do porcelain slabs go green?
Algae typically thrives on porous natural stone because it settles and grows in the pores of the stone. This problem is significantly reduced with porcelain, as it is non-porous. Algae can still grow on porcelain if the paving has been installed with an insufficient fall, leading to water pooling on the surface. This stagnant water then becomes the ideal environment for algae to flourish. In this instance, porcelain, like natural stone, can turn green.
7.Is it safe to use a jet or pressure wash on a porcelain patio?
Yes, porcelain can be jet washed, and with less caution than when jet washing stone, which can deteriorate under the pressure of the water spray. The main risk when jet washing porcelain is potentially loosening the jointing compound. For this reason, when jet washing porcelain, hold the nozzle at a 45-degree angle to the paving, approximately 30cm away, and avoid using the finest nozzle setting to protect the integrity of the joints.
FAQs — Natural Stone Paving
Why choose natural stone?
1. What are the benefits of choosing natural stone paving slabs?
Natural stone paving slabs are a timeless material and have been used for centuries. Their aesthetic appeal and longevity make them a popular choice for residential and commercial patios and driveways.
Aesthetic appeal: Natural stone provides a unique, elegant look that is unmatched by synthetic materials. Each slab has distinctive colour variations, textures and patterns, adding character and style to any outdoor space.
Durability and longevity: High-quality natural stone is incredibly durable and can withstand harsh weather conditions without deteriorating.
Increases property value: Due to its aesthetic appeal, high-quality natural stone can increase the value of your property.
Low maintenance: Natural stone is fairly low maintenance. It needs only occasional cleaning maintain its beauty and functionality, and cleaning is quicker if you’ve also had your paving sealed.
Versatility: Available in a variety of types such as granite, limestone, sandstone and slate, natural stone can be used in a wide range of applications, from garden paths and patios to driveways and pool surrounds.
2. How do I choose the right type of natural stone for my project?
Choosing the right natural stone for your paving project depends on several factors. Here are some key considerations to help you make the right choice for your project:
Aesthetic fit: Natural stone comes in a variety of colours, textures, and finishes. Choose a stone that complements your property and design choice.
Durability needs: Different types of stone have varying levels of durability and resistance to weathering. For instance, granite and basalt are extremely hard and durable, making them suitable for high-traffic areas. Limestone and sandstone are slightly softer but usually have a much wider colour choice.
Maintenance requirements: Some natural stones require more maintenance than others. For example, sandstone is more porous and may need regular cleaning to prevent staining. Slate, while less porous, can still benefit from sealing to maintain its appearance over time. Find more information on cleaning natural stone paving and whether sealing your paving is necessary.
Your budget: Price is often an important factor. Natural stone can vary significantly in price but bear in mind that, whatever the cost of the material, installation costs remain the same, so we’d always recommend stretching the paving material budget as much as possible to maximise your investment.
Environmental impact: If sustainability is a concern, consider where and how the stone is quarried. Local stone that doesn’t require long-distance transportation offers environmental benefits in reduced carbon emissions.
Installation constraints: Some stones are easier to install than others. The weight and size of the stone can affect installation methods and costs. Discuss options with your contractor to understand what installation entails for each type of stone.
Slip-resistance: Especially important for areas like pool surrounds or outdoor kitchens, choosing a stone with good slip-resistance is crucial.
Sample viewing: Always view samples of the stone in different light conditions before deciding. This can help you get a true feel for how the stone will look in situ.
3. How long will a natural stone patio last for?
A natural stone patio can last for over 25 years if it is made from high-quality, hard stone that has been professionally installed and is regularly maintained.
4. What is Indian sandstone?
Indian sandstone is popular in building and landscaping projects around the world. It is known for its durability and natural beauty. Its significantly lower cost, compared to that of indigenous natural stone in Europe and the UK, has also contributed to its popularity.
The rich colour variations of Indian sandstone, which range from browns and beiges to more exotic hues like reds, greys, and greens, are the result of mineral content and sedimentary layers laid down when the stone was formed and are part of its appeal. Indian sandstone is often chosen for its resistance to weathering and its ability to retain its appearance over time, making it a popular choice for external paving slabs.
5. How much is Indian sandstone per m2
The cost of Indian sandstone per square metre typically ranges from £25 to £35. This price can vary depending on factors such as the quality of the stone, the supplier, and how it's packaged. Given these variations, it's important to compare samples before making a purchase, to ensure that the quality of the material is in line with your expectations. Find out more about the cost of natural stone paving, including how to make a design look more expensive.
6. How is Indian sandstone paving made?
Riven sandstone is extracted and processed with a combination of traditional craftsmanship and heavy machinery. Initially, large blocks of sandstone are separated from the quarry bed by machinery. These blocks are then further split into large, rough sheets.
Once the sheets are prepared, they are roughly cut into oversized slabs. Precise measurements for the final product are marked using a metal template, and these are then cut to the exact dimensions required with chisels and hammers.
After achieving the desired shape and size, the slabs undergo a calibration process using machines to ensure they are of uniform thickness.
In the case of sawn sandstone, the initial blocks are sliced into thin slabs using large block saws. The edges of these slices are then further cut to precise dimensions. Finally, a surface finish is applied to enhance the stone's natural aesthetics.
7. Do natural stone paving slabs require sealing, and how often?
Sealing natural stone paving slabs is recommended to protect them from staining and weathering, especially for porous materials like sawn sandstone and limestone. London Stone recommend Dry Treat Stain Proof as this is an impregnating sealant that penetrates deep into the stone without changing its appearance. See our blog for more information on different types of paving sealant.
8. How many paving slabs do I need?
Measure the area: First, measure the length and width of your patio area in metres. Multiply these two numbers together to get the total area in square metres.
Determine slab size: Find out the size of one patio slab by multiplying its length and width in centimetres. This gives you the area that one slab will cover.
Calculate the number of slabs: Divide the total area of the patio by the area covered by one slab. This tells you how many slabs you'll need.
Include extra for waste: Add an extra 10% to your total number of slabs to account for any cuts, breaks, or installation mishaps.
Alternatively, for our paving, use the paving calculator on our product pages. Enter the area measurement you require and toggle between the “m2” and the “ea” option. You can then see how many slabs will cover the area.
Design
1. Natural stone patio ideas
Before laying can commence, a patio or any type of paved area needs to be designed. Depending on the complexity of the project, this may need to be done by a landscape professional. It’s worth remembering that it’s not just about how the finished patio looks. Careful consideration needs to be given to drainage, sub-base and any specific site conditions that might affect the structural stability of the patio.
If you are looking for inspiration for your finished patio, visit our Garden Design Ideas pages and take a look at some of the incredible gardens that have been designed and built using London Stone paving materials. You’ll also find plenty of inspiration in the Garden Design section of our blog, including a round-up of design details for sandstone patios.
2. What factors should I consider before designing a natural stone patio?
Purpose and functionality: Define the primary use of the patio, whether it's for dining, entertaining, relaxing, or a combination. This will influence the size, layout, and features you might include, such as seating areas, a fire pit, or outdoor kitchen.
Location: Choose a location based on exposure to sun and shade, proximity to your house, and views. Consider privacy from neighbours and protection from elements like wind. Remember that north-facing patios will be much more susceptible to algae and, as a result, will need much more maintenance.
Size: Determine the size needed to comfortably accommodate your furniture and the number of guests you anticipate hosting. Ensure there's enough space for people to move around easily.
Materials: Some stones are more resistant to weather, while others may require more maintenance, so select materials that not only match the style of your home but also fit the climate of where you live.
Design aesthetic: Consider the style you want to achieve. Natural stone comes in various colours and textures that can complement a rustic, modern or traditional decor.
Landscaping: Think about how the patio will integrate with your existing landscaping. Consider incorporating elements like built-in planters, garden paths or water features.
Budget: Set a budget early in the planning process. This will help guide your material choices and design complexity. Remember to include costs for preparation, materials, installation and future maintenance.
Drainage: Ensure the patio is designed with a slight slope away from your house to prevent water accumulation. Proper drainage is essential to protect both the patio and your home’s foundation.
Longevity and maintenance: Choose durable materials and a design that you will enjoy for years to come. Consider the amount of maintenance you are willing to undertake to keep your patio in good condition.
Maintenance
1. How do you clean natural stone paving slabs?
Regular Regular sweeping: Stains from organic matter can be stubborn and difficult to remove. We recommend that you sweep your patio regularly to prevent leaves and debris from breaking down and staining the slabs.
Deep cleaning: Use a jet wash correctly twice a year and give your patio a thorough clean. Excessive jet washing is not recommended as the water pressure can damage the surface of the stone.
Stain removal: Treat specific stains like oil or grease promptly with an appropriate chemical cleaner because, the longer a stain is left, the more difficult it will be to remove.
2. How to clean limestone paving effectively:
Avoid acid: Never use acid-based products on limestone, as they can cause serious and irreversible damage.
Regular maintenance: Like other natural stones, limestone should be swept regularly to prevent debris from causing stains.
Deep cleaning: Use a gentle, non-acidic cleaner and a soft brush or a low-pressure wash a few times a year to keep the limestone looking its best.
Sealing
1. What does sealing a patio do?
Sealing a patio with an impregnating paving sealant helps prevent water and dirt from being absorbed into the slabs, which can cause ingrained stains. It's important to note that sealing is not grime-repellent—the surface of the stone can still get dirty. However, sealing makes stains much easier to remove, helping to maintain the appearance and longevity of the patio.
2. Does sandstone paving need sealing?
Sealing sandstone paving is generally beneficial, though not always necessary depending on the type and location of the stone. All types of sandstone, whether six-sided sawn or naturally riven, can be sealed.
Riven and tumbled sandstones, which are more robust, may not require sealing unless they are in high-traffic areas or north-facing gardens, where they are more exposed to moisture and wear.
Sawn paving, on the other hand, has open pores due to the cutting process, making it more susceptible to staining.
Therefore, it is recommended always to seal sawn sandstone to protect against stains and maintain its appearance. Our guide to sealing explains the different types of sealant and will help you decide whether you need to do this.
3. When to seal sandstone paving?
Sealing sandstone paving is an important step to protect it from staining and weather damage. Here are some brief guidelines for when to seal sandstone paving:
Pre-installation: If possible, seal the sandstone before it is installed. This can provide an even coat and protect the stone as it is being laid.
Post-installation dry-out period: If pre-installation sealing wasn't done, it’s crucial to allow the sandstone to completely dry out after it's laid. This usually means waiting for a period that can vary depending on the climate, but typically a few days of dry weather will suffice. This waiting period ensures that no moisture is trapped within the stone, which could lead to damage if sealed in.
Weather considerations: Always choose a dry, warm day for sealing the sandstone. Avoid rainy or very cold days as the sealer may not set properly.
4. Do you need to seal all types of stone patio slabs?
While sealing stone patio slabs can extend their lifespan and enhance their appearance, not all types of stone require sealing. It depends on their porosity, usage and location. Here's a general guideline:
High porosity stones: Stones like sawn sandstone and limestone are highly porous and generally benefit from sealing. This prevents water absorption that can lead to staining, frost damage, and algae growth.
Hardy stones: Certain types of stone like riven and tumbled Indian sandstones, as well as granite, are naturally more resilient and less porous. These stones can often go unsealed, especially in low-traffic areas and south-facing gardens. However, even these hardy stones can benefit from sealing in certain situations, such as in high-traffic areas or in places exposed to harsh weather conditions.
Aesthetic reasons: Some people choose to seal stones to enhance their colour and finish, even if it's not strictly necessary for protection. Sealers can give the stone a wet look that some find appealing, or simply enhance the natural colours. Colour-enhancing sealant is often used to retain the deep tones of Black limestone.
Installation
1. How to lay natural stone paving
Whether you want to lay Indian sandstone, granite, slate or limestone, the process is quite similar. Discover more in our detailed paving installation guide and our instruction videos on laying riven sandstone and laying sawn paving.
In the meantime, here’s a brief overview of the process of how to install paving slabs:
Preparation of base:
Excavate the area to a depth of about 100-200 mm.
Lay a sub-base of crushed stone or hardcore up to 100 mm thick and compact it using a plate compactor.
Create mortar mix:
Prepare a mortar mix of sand and cement (ratio of about 5:1) with water to a workable semi-dry consistency.
Laying the stones:
Start from a corner or edge. Apply a layer of mortar to the sub-base and then place the stone slabs on the mortar. Use a rubber mallet to tap them into place.
Ensure each stone is level and maintain consistent joint widths between them using spacers if necessary.
Cutting stones:
For edges and corners, measure and cut stones as needed using a wet saw or an angle grinder.
Filling joints:
Once all stones are laid and the mortar has set (typically after 24 hours), fill the joints with a pointing mortar.
In our blog you’ll find hints, tips and video on how to lay Indian sandstone.
2. What mortar mix for laying Indian sandstone?
For laying Indian sandstone and for paving installation in general, the optimal mortar mix is 1 part cement to 5 parts sharp sand, with just enough water added to achieve a semi-dry texture. To confirm you've added the correct amount of water, test the mortar by squeezing a handful into a ball. If it holds together without crumbling, the consistency is right.
3. How much to lay Indian sandstone?
The cost of laying Indian sandstone paving in the UK can vary, based on several factors, including the area of the country. Prices are generally higher in London compared to the Midlands, for example. More experienced contractors might also charge more, and the overall cost will also depend on the amount of preparation work required. To ensure you get a fair price, we always recommend getting at least 3 quotes.
4. How to cut limestone paving slabs
1.To cut limestone paving slabs, you’ll need a diamond blade saw.
2.First, clearly mark the cut line with chalk or a pencil.
3.Place the limestone on a stable surface and ensure it’s securely supported.
4.Use the diamond blade to slowly and carefully cut along the marked line.
5.Cutting limestone is generally similar to cutting other types of stone, but it’s important to note that limestone is softer than materials like granite or porcelain, so it requires less pressure during cutting.
6.The softness of limestone also means that it can chip or break more easily under rough handling, so a steady, controlled approach is crucial to achieving a clean cut.
FAQs — Natural Characteristics
My slabs are not exactly the same colour as the sample I received. Why?
Stone is a natural product and no two pieces are ever identical. Some products have fairly subtle differences from slab to slab and batch to batch, whereas others contain a lot of variation. This makes it impossible for us to show a true representation of the stone you will receive in just one 75mm x 75mm sample. We strongly recommend that you make a visit to one of our showrooms to view the stone in situ. Again, what you see at the showroom will not be identical to the stone you receive, but the more stone you can view the better idea you will have of what to expect.
My stone is darker than the sample I was expecting. Why?
As well as the natural colour differences explained in the previous answer, stone may also appear darker if it is wet. If your stone has been cut to order in our Bespoke Stone Centre then there is a chance that it could be retaining moisture from the wet cutting process. If in doubt, allow the stone to dry thoroughly prior to installation.
Some of my slabs have small chips on the edges. Why?
Processing, handling and transportation can cause small chips to the edges and corners of slabs. Although we invest heavily in packaging and take great care to get your stone to site in excellent condition, some small chips are unfortunately unavoidable and are considered the norm within the natural stone industry. The vast majority of these imperfections will not be noticeable once the stone is installed and pointed. We recommend opening all crates and arranging your slabs before commencing installation. This will allow you to set aside any slabs with larger chips to be used for cuts.
My stone slabs have some markings on them, are they faulty?
All natural stone will have naturally occurring features such as veining, pitting and blemishes. These are all perfectly normal and are ok to be installed. However, if you think you may not like a particular prominent feature, then keep these for cuts and wastage.
FAQs — Delivery & Lead Times
How will my stone be delivered?
Delivery methods will depend on the quantity of stone ordered and the location that we are delivering to. Local deliveries are made by our in-house transport department on a hiab (crane offload) vehicle. Our drivers are very experienced, friendly and helpful. If you’d like your crates left on a driveway or front garden, we will do our best to accommodate this subject to accessibility with the crane from the roadside and the driver’s discretion.
Nationwide deliveries are made by an external pallet freight company. This is a kerbside only service so you will need to take responsibility for moving the goods off the road and onto your own property. The pallet freight vehicles use a tail lift and pump truck which means that the driver will need a flat area of hard-standing (i.e. not gravel or grass) on which to unload.
Delivery drivers are unable to carry slabs through to your back garden so please ensure you have the relevant labour organised to facilitate this. If you have any concerns about delivery methods or suitability, please speak with one of our sales advisors who will be able to help.
How quickly can I get my order delivered?
We can usually deliver next day if an order is placed by 1pm the day before. However, it is always best to allow plenty of time to plan deliveries. Stone is not always straight forward to deliver. It may also be delivered towards the end of the day, so do not plan to lay stone on the day of delivery.
My house is on a road with width restrictions, can you still deliver to me?
Deliveries are often made on large vehicles; it is best to ensure there are no delivery restrictions for these types of vehicles or make arrangements accordingly. Restrictions could include width/height restrictions, Red Routes, un-adopted roads and permit parking bays for example. We have a variety of vehicles that can suit most needs. If in doubt please contact us beforehand.
Can I book my installers in and then order materials afterwards?
We would strongly recommend only planning work in once a delivery date has been confirmed. Although we try to keep high stock levels, even off the shelf products can sell out and become unavailable when needed. Incoming stock deliveries, special orders and bespoke orders can all be subject to delays beyond our control.
FAQs — The Ordering Process
Do I need to order extra slabs for wastage?
We recommend that customers order an additional 10% extra for wastage. This will prevent your project being held up in the event of breakages or damage on site. It also means that you can discard the odd slab that you don’t like the look of due to natural colour variation, veining etc.
Do I have to buy a full crate? I only need a small amount of material.
Not at all – just buy the quantity that you need. We know that it’s really frustrating to have to order twice as much as you need so we are more than happy to split down our crates of stone if required.
How long will my order take to arrive?
The vast majority of our stone is kept in stock, meaning that we can usually deliver within just a couple of working days – often we can accommodate next day delivery requests if you order in the morning. Occasionally we do sell out of a certain product so it’s always a good idea to get your order placed as soon as you’ve made up your mind to avoid disappointment. In addition, bespoke masonry services or special orders will take more time to process so, again, the sooner you can order the better.
FAQs — How to Lay a Patio
Preparation before laying
1. Check the slabs before laying
All natural stone slabs will contain variation in colour, shading, veining and other characteristics. Care should be taken prior to installation to ensure that variation is evenly distributed across the area to be paved. If multiple crates or packs are ordered, all crates should be opened and sorted to ensure an even distribution of variation. Porcelain will also display variation across different batches, so the same applies.
We always recommend that customers check their slabs before they start laying them because, unfortunately we can’t replace or exchange slabs due to natural variation or once they have been installed.
2. What is the best time of year to install paving?
Paving can be successfully laid at any time of the year; however, weather conditions play a crucial role in the installation process. It's important to check the weather forecast before beginning your project. Avoid starting the installation if heavy rain is expected, as it can weaken the bedding layer. Similarly, avoid laying paving if temperatures are expected to drop below 4°C during the mortar curing period, as this can prevent proper setting. Find more information on laying paving in wet and/or cold weather on our blog.
In contrast, extreme heat can cause mortar to dry too rapidly, leading to cracking. Planning your installation around mild and dry weather conditions is ideal to ensure the longevity and durability of the paving.
3. Has sawn stone got a top and bottom or can I lay it any way round?
On sawn stone, generally, the more textured side is on top. For example, the top might be sandblasted. If it’s sawn six sides and hasn’t been textured, the top will be the better-looking side. Calibration marks, if any, will be on the bottom. Also, if you have taken advantage of our paving sealing service, the top of the stone will be sealed and not absorb any water, whereas the bottom will.
4.Which way up should I lay my riven sandstone? Does it matter?
There is a top and a bottom to all natural stone slabs. The top will always be the better-looking side. With riven sandstone, the top will have a larger, flatter surface and the edges will taper in slightly towards the bottom of the slab. If in doubt, just get in touch and we will be happy to assist.
5.Any advice before I start laying the paving slabs?
Open and mix pallets of stone before laying. Do not just lay from one pallet at a time. Laying from a mix ensures an even distribution of the natural variation and colour. It also gives the opportunity to spot any pieces that you’ll want to leave for cuts and wastage.
6.Are my patio slabs ready to be installed on delivery?
In most cases, yes. However, it’s worth remembering that our paving slabs are stored outside, so they can arrive with residual moisture, and they will occasionally need cleaning prior to installation. If you are planning to seal your paving on site, the stone needs to be allowed to dry beforehand and we would recommend unpacking and cleaning the stone prior to sealing.
7. What thickness should the sub base be for a driveway or patio?
The thickness of the sub base for any paving installation depends on the expected usage. For a driveway, which can be subject to vehicle traffic, a subbase of 200mm of MOT Type 1 is recommended to ensure the longevity of the driveway. For a patio, which usually does not bear vehicle traffic, a shallower sub base of 100mm of MOT Type 1 is sufficient. Proper sub base specification and installation is crucial for the longevity and stability of any paved area. Watch our video to see how to install a sub base.
Patio Installation
1. Do you offer an installation service?
No, we like to focus all our efforts on supplying the best-quality natural stone paving we can. However, you can use our Connect service to find a garden designer or landscaper in your area. As with any project of this nature, please ensure that you check companies’ portfolios carefully, to see examples of previous work, and obtain alternative quotations before you agree to any work taking place.
We highly recommend using a professional to carry out your landscaping installation. This will usually be a contractor who is registered with a professional association such as the APL or BALI.
Get a flavour of what a professional job entails in Granite Paving Installation – How a Professional Does It.
2. Can paving be installed over an existing driveway or patio?
We do not recommend laying new paving on top of an existing patio or driveway. The condition and suitability of the underlying sub base are crucial for the stability and longevity of the paving, and these factors can be uncertain with existing installations. Installing new paving is a significant investment, so it's important to start with a solid foundation. This typically involves removing the old paving material and preparing a new sub base to ensure the best possible results. For detailed steps on proper installation, please refer to our patio installation guide.
For more information, check out Laying Slabs on Concrete.
3. Can I install my stone in the rain?
When installing sealed stone, if carried out in the wet after freshly being sealed, the force of the mallet can push moisture into the stone and compromise the sealant. This should therefore be avoided. It may also have detrimental effects to the bedding materials although your installation professional should be able to best advise on this. Discover more in our Tips for Laying Stone in Winter.
4. Does light-coloured stone need to be installed differently?
On light-coloured paving materials, use a white rubber mallet to tap them down or wrap a clean rag around a normal mallet. This prevents rubber marks getting transferred to the paving material, which can cause unsightly stains that are difficult to remove. It is also advised for some specific stone to use white cement and river-washed sand (see individual product guides for further information).
5. Can natural stone paving be butt-jointed?
We strongly advise against this. Pointing is an important part of paving construction and provides stability for the paved area. Natural stone also has dimensional tolerances which make it impossible to achieve an even finish by butt-jointing. Butt-jointing leaves gaps, albeit tiny ones, between slabs and so it can also encourage weed growth and leave the paving vulnerable to damage from freeze/thaw action. Discover more on this and related subjects in our blogpost on laying Indian sandstone.
6. How do I install stepping stones?
Stepping stones should be installed the same way as the main patio: on a compacted MOT type 1 sub base with a full bed of sand and cement mortar. Because stepping stones are usually exposed on all sides, we would recommend installing an angled haunch on all sides of the stone to prevent any lateral movement.
7. Can I install natural stone using a pedestal system?
Pedestal systems are often used where weight is an issue: for example, on balconies. We recommend that stone is a minimum of 50mm thick, no larger than 600x600mm, and that you also place a central support in addition to the edge/corner pedestals.
Alternatively, we sell a range of porcelain products which are ideally suited for a pedestal installation, due to being only 20mm thick and lighter than natural stone. You also do not need a central support when using porcelain on the smaller sizes; you only need extra supports in the middle of each long edge on the 1194mm size slabs.
Pointing, jointing and grouting patio slabs
1. What size should pointing gaps be?
For riven paving we recommend a minimum pointing gap of approximately 10mm. For sawn stones, we recommend a minimum gap of around 5mm. Any dimensional differences in the slabs should be allowed for in the joints, to give you an even finish overall.
2. How should I point my paving?
Pointing is an important part of a patio installation and affects both the durability and appearance of the finished surface. Find out more about How to Choose Pointing in our blog.
Here’s how to point your paving using alternative methods to traditional cement-based mortars. For more detail, visit our Pointing a Patio - 5 Tips for a Professional Finish.
Choose the right product: opt for ready-to-use grouts or resin-based sweep-in compounds, which are excellent for paving, due to their durability and ease of application. These products are less prone to cracking and can better withstand weather changes.
Find out why GftK is one of our favourite brush-in grouts.
Prepare the joints: Before application, ensure that all joints are clean, dry and free from debris. The depth of the product in the joints should be consistent, to ensure a uniform appearance and structural integrity.
Applying the product: For grouts, mix according to the manufacturer's instructions and apply with a grout float, pressing firmly to fill the joints completely. For resin-based sweep-in products, pour the compound over the paving and use a broom to sweep the product into the joints, ensuring they are filled entirely.
Cleaning up: Sweep the surface with a soft brush to remove excess material. Some resin-based products may require a light misting of water to activate the bonding process, so follow the manufacturer's guidelines closely.
Curing time: Allow ample time for the product to set and cure, according to the product specifications. Avoid walking on or stressing the paved area during this period, to ensure the best results.
Cutting natural stone and porcelain paving
1. How do I safely cut paving slabs?
Cutting paving slabs requires careful handling to ensure safety and precision. Follow these safety guidelines to protect yourself and achieve the best results:
Wear protective gear: Always wear appropriate safety equipment, including safety goggles, dust masks, ear protection, and sturdy gloves. This gear will protect you from flying particles, noise, and any accidental slips of the tool.
Use the right tools: Employ a cutting tool that is suitable for the type of material you are working with. Diamond-tipped blades are generally best for most paving slabs, due to their durability and precision.
Secure the slab: Make sure the paving slab is securely positioned on a stable and flat surface before beginning to cut. Use clamps if necessary, to prevent the slab from moving.
Mark your cut: Use a chalk line or a pencil to clearly mark where you intend to cut on the slab. This guide will help you keep the cut straight and reduce mistakes.
Use water suppression: If using a power saw, use water suppression techniques to reduce dust. This not only keeps the work area clean but also helps keep the blade cool and reduces the risk of dust inhalation.
Check the blade: Before starting, ensure the blade is in good condition and securely attached to the tool. A worn-out or loosely attached blade can be dangerous.
Operate at a consistent speed: Maintain a steady and appropriate speed while cutting. Forcing the blade too quickly through the material can lead to inaccuracies and potential breakage.
Keep bystanders away: Make sure the area is clear of other people, especially children and pets, to avoid accidental injuries.
Inspect equipment post-use: After completing your cuts, inspect your tools and equipment for any damage or wear. Proper maintenance ensures safety for future use.
2. What’s the best way to cut paving slabs?
To achieve a clean cut and the right finish when cutting paving slabs, it's essential to use the correct equipment. A diamond blade is highly recommended and, if cutting porcelain, use a diamond-tipped porcelain blade.
Additionally, using water suppression is crucial; it helps keep the blade cool and significantly reduces dust production during cutting.
For ultimate precision, consider using a bench saw, which allows for more controlled and accurate cuts. Ensuring you have the right tools and techniques is key to achieving a professional-looking finish on your paving project.
3. Is it possible to cut porcelain paving slabs?
Yes, it is possible to cut porcelain paving slabs, although they are harder to work with than natural stone. It's crucial to use a blade that is specifically designed for cutting porcelain to ensure a clean cut and to minimise the risk of chipping. Blades suitable for porcelain can be purchased from suppliers like London Stone.
Additionally, always use water while cutting, to help keep the blade cool and reduce the risk of the blade overheating and potentially causing injury. It is also advisable to avoid using a 115mm angle grinder for cutting porcelain, as these smaller grinders may not allow the blade sufficient time to cool, increasing the risk of blade failure and injury.
Find more detail in How to Cut Porcelain Slabs.
FAQs — Bespoke Stone Cutting
What is bespoke stone cutting?
Bespoke stone cutting is the custom tailoring of stone slabs to precise dimensions and shapes for a client’s specific requirements. This service includes intricate paving patterns, steps, coping, and pool surrounds.
Using advanced equipment, such as CNC machinery and bridge saws, bespoke stone cutting allows for precision in crafting pieces that fit perfectly into a planned landscape layout. Whether you need curved pieces for a rounded pool, perfectly flat surfaces for steps, or specially sized pavers to complete a patio area, bespoke cutting ensures your stone elements integrate seamlessly into your design, and allow you to put your own stamp on your garden project. Find out more in our videos about London Stone’s bespoke stone cutting services.
Can all types of stone be cut to bespoke specifications?
Yes, most types of stone can be bespoke cut. It’s more difficult and expensive to cut harder materials like granite, and specialist equipment is essential to cut porcelain without causing damage. It's important to work with experienced stone fabricators who understand how to best handle the different types of stone.
What is the cost of bespoke stone cutting?
It’s hard to say, because the cost of bespoke stone cutting can vary widely depending on several factors. The type of stone selected, the complexity of the cuts, the thickness of the material, and the overall size of the project all have an impact on the final price. More intricate designs and harder materials, such as granite or porcelain, typically cost more to cut due to the additional labour and specialised equipment required. Get in touch with us, so we can provide a precise quote based on your specific requirements.
Is London Stone’s bespoke stone made in-house?
The majority of the bespoke stone that we supply is cut and fabricated at our bespoke stone centre near to Heathrow. We can also source a wide range of bespoke materials directly from our global supply chains. The lead times for bespoke material cut in-house are typically 4-8 weeks, while bespoke material from abroad can be 4-14 weeks. Generally European bespoke material is available in 4-6 weeks and any material from further afield, like India and China, takes 12-14 weeks
FAQs — Patio Sealer
1. What is a patio sealer and why should I use one?
A patio sealer is a protective surface coating applied to paving slabs to protect the material against weathering, staining, and wear. Sealers can be used on various patio surfaces, including concrete, natural stone, and pavers. The main reasons to use a patio sealer include:
Protection from stains: Sealer forms a barrier on the surface of the patio, which helps prevent stains from absorbing.
Enhanced durability: Sealing a patio can extend its lifespan by protecting it from excessive moisture and subsequent weathering.
Improved appearance: Sealers can enhance the natural colour of your paving slabs and give them a glossy or matte finish, depending on the type of sealer used. This can rejuvenate the look of your patio.
Reduced maintenance: With a protective sealer layer, the patio surface is easier to clean and maintain. Dirt and grime will sit on the sealer surface instead of penetrating into the material, making it easier to clean.
Mould and algae resistance: Sealers can prevent the growth of mould and algae by blocking moisture absorption into the patio material, keeping the area cleaner and safer to use.
Applying a patio sealer is a straightforward way to ensure that your patio remains in excellent condition and looks good for many years.
2. Does natural stone need to be sealed?
We strongly recommend sealing natural stone if it has a sawn (or smooth) surface. Our recommended sealant is Dry Treat Stain Proof. It can also be beneficial to seal riven natural stone. This will make cleaning and maintenance much easier and will help to prevent permanent staining to the stone. This is even more important in high-traffic areas. For example, a driveway is likely to suffer the occasional oil droplet or tyre marks. Overhanging trees can drop sap, BBQs will mean spillages of drinks, fat and food, pets may tread muddy paw prints across the patio. In all these instances, it’s strongly advised that you seal your stone to help protect against permanent stains.
Please note, a sealant will not negate the need for a cleaning and maintenance programme. Whilst Dry Treat will help to protect against permanent stains that are absorbed into the stone, it will not stop marks, footprints, spillages etc. from appearing on the surface of the stone. The aim of the sealant is to make these marks easier to clean off so that, with the right cleaning regime, your stone can be brought back to its best.
3. Does porcelain paving need to be sealed?
No, porcelain paving typically does not require sealing. Porcelain has very low porosity, which means it has a very low absorption rate, making it naturally resistant to water penetration, staining and frost damage.
However, while porcelain itself barely absorbs liquids, grout lines between the tiles may still be susceptible to staining and could benefit from being sealed. If you choose to seal the grout for additional protection against dirt and stains, make sure to use a product that is suitable for your specific type of grout. Overall, maintaining porcelain paving is more about regular cleaning to remove surface dirt and debris, rather than applying a sealer. Read more in our Guide to Sealing.
4. How often should I reapply sealer to my patio?
Whether you need to reapply sealer to your patio depends on the type of sealer used and the environmental and usage conditions your patio faces. Topical sealants, which sit on the surface of the paving, are likely to need reapplying every few years. Factors such as the level of foot traffic, exposure to severe weather, and the type of material your patio is made from will affect how often you need to reapply them. For example, frequent sun exposure, heavy rains, and freeze-thaw cycles can all diminish a sealer’s effectiveness.
The robust nature of Dry-Treat impregnating sealers, which London Stone recommends, provides extensive protection against stains and environmental elements, making them more durable than many other sealers. Dry Treat Stain Proof does not require reapplying and comes with a 15-year guarantee when applied by an approved dealer. Dry Treat Colour Enhancing sealant should be reapplied every 5 years or so. Discover more about the best Dry Treat sealers for your paving and London Stone’s guaranteed sealing service.
5. How long after installing the stone can I apply a sealant?
Ideally, the sealant should be applied prior to installation. This allows you to help protect the stone during the installation process and will also help to prevent efflorescence.
If you’ve already installed the stone, you can still seal it retrospectively and you can find out more in When and How to Use Patio Stone Sealer.
You must ensure that the laid stone is clean and completely dry all the way through – please be aware that stone can appear to be dry on the surface whilst still retaining moisture underneath. For this reason, sealing is best done after a period of warm, dry weather, which will mean waiting until spring or summer.
Do not seal stone which is showing signs of efflorescence (a cloudy, whitish bloom on the surface, caused by salt particles being drawn up through the stone from the bedding layer). We recommend waiting at least 6 weeks after installation before applying a sealant to be sure that efflorescence is not going to occur.
6. What happens if you seal stone before/during efflorescence?
This will make the efflorescence much more difficult, or impossible, to remove. We strongly recommend sealing the stone prior to installation to help protect against efflorescence – we can pre-seal the stone before delivery for you. Efflorescence, characterised by white, cloudy marks, is caused by salts from the bedding layer leaching through to the surface of the stone. It is a temporary phenomenon, affecting only a small percentage of projects, which will disappear on its own over time. Unfortunately, this can take a couple of weeks, several months or even longer. You can speed up the process by regularly cleaning the stone, but ultimately the efflorescence must run its course.
7. What happens if I seal stone which is dirty or wet?
Dirty marks will be much harder to clean if you have applied sealant over the top of them. The sealant will have coated the particles of dirt, potentially missing patches of the stone itself and meaning that you may also need to reapply more sealant after you’ve cleaned the marks off. Sealing when the stone is wet means that the sealant will effectively become diluted and will not perform as effectively as it should. Again, this will require re-sealing, which adds additional cost.
8. Is it possible to over-apply the product?
The stone will reach a natural saturation point, meaning that no further sealant can be absorbed. Any excess sealant needs to be wiped away from the surface. Leaving excess sealant on the surface will cause sticky, shiny patches, so it’s important to ensure that they are wiped away as per the sealing guide.
9. What happens if I put more sealant on one area than another?
It’s best to apply your sealant with a spray applicator to ensure an even coverage. If you follow the directions closely, apply the recommended number of coats and make sure to wipe away any excess, then you should find that coverage is even across the paved area. Any areas which have not received a full application of Dry Treat, as per the directions on the packaging, will not be fully protected and will require further application.
10. What happens if the paving gets wet before the sealant has had chance to dry?
This is another benefit to having your stone pre-sealed by us before delivery – we seal the stone indoors and it arrives with you, ready to install. If you’re planning to seal the stone after installation, check the weather forecast and wait for a period of warm, dry weather.
If it does rain after you apply the sealant, the effect on your stone will depend on how quickly the stone got wet after sealing and how much it rained. A very light shower 4 hours after the sealant is applied may mean that you need to apply an extra coat of sealant once the stone is dry again. A torrential downpour, or someone jet-washing the stone, may mean the paving requires sealing again from scratch once it is dry.
11. Should I seal the bottom of the slabs for extra protection?
No! Please make sure that you seal the surface only. Sealing the underside of the slabs could affect adhesion between the slab and the bedding layer. It also won’t offer any additional protection for the stone and will cost you twice as much money.
12. I didn’t wipe away all the excess sealant and now there are shiny patches of dried sealant on the surface of the stone. How can I get rid of them?
In the first couple of days or so after sealing, you should be able to remove any excess using a clean, white cloth dampened with the original sealing product. In hot weather, this time window will be narrower. Acetone can be used in the same way for about the next 7 days. After this time period, the sealant will have cured and will be exceptionally difficult to remove.
14. How soon after sealing can I jet-wash the stone?
We recommend waiting at least 30 days before you jet-wash paving to avoid any issues.
FAQs — Cleaning
1. How often should I clean my patio?
The frequency of patio cleaning largely depends on the paving material that you have chosen, its usage, and the local environment. Generally, we recommend that you sweep your patio weekly to remove leaves and other debris. A more thorough washing or deep cleaning should ideally be done at least twice a year — once in the spring, to clear away any grime accumulated over the winter, and again in the autumn, to prepare it for the colder months.
If your patio is under heavy tree cover, or subject to frequent use, you might need to clean it more often to prevent moss, algae growth and stains. Regular maintenance not only keeps your patio looking its best, but also extends its lifespan by preventing damage and deterioration. Find out more about cleaning a natural stone patio and cleaning outdoor porcelain tiles.
2. Is porcelain zero-maintenance?
While porcelain paving slabs are extremely low-maintenance, it’s a myth that they are completely maintenance-free. Porcelain is highly resistant to stains, scratches and frost, and its minimal upkeep requirements make it an ideal choice for outdoor use.
However, to keep porcelain looking its best, routine cleaning is still needed. This usually involves sweeping off debris and occasional washing with water to remove dirt and minor stains. Like natural stone, porcelain can also be cleaned intensively with a power wash a couple of times per year. Also take extra care with the placement of light-coloured porcelain, which will show up darker marks from, for example, fallen leaves more easily, and avoid areas where there is heavy over-hanging vegetation.
3. What equipment do I need to clean my patio?
Cleaning your patio quickly and to a good standard requires a few essential tools and materials. Here’s what you’ll typically need:
Broom: A good, stiff broom is vital for sweeping away loose debris such as leaves, dirt, and dust. Alternatively, you can also use a leaf blower for this purpose.
Pressure washer: For deep cleaning, a pressure washer can remove tough grime, stains and moss that a broom won’t touch. It’s important to use a jet wash correctly. Use a medium pressure setting and under no circumstances use the fine spray as this can damage and etch the surface of the paving slabs.
Garden hose: if carrying out a light clean, a standard garden hose with a spray nozzle can be a gentler alternative to a pressure washer.
Scrub brush: For stubborn stains or areas where moss and algae have built up, a scrub brush is a useful tool in your patio-cleaning armoury.
Weed removal tool: If weeds are growing between the paving stones, which can happen with clay and brick pavers, a weed removal tool is useful
Rubber gloves: To protect your hands from harsh cleaners or when handling dirty water.
Safety goggles: These are important to protect your eyes from splashes, if using a pressure washer or harsh chemicals.
These tools will help you tackle most patio-cleaning tasks. Regular cleaning, not only enhances the appearance of your patio, but also helps to avoid damage, prolonging the patio’s lifespan.
4. Can I use a patio cleaner on my natural stone?
Yes, but the content of natural stone can sometimes react with certain types of chemical cleaner, so it’s always best to check with one of our sales advisors before you use a patio cleaner. You can find a guide to patio cleaner options on our blog.
Always test cleaners on a small area before full application and never use an acid-based cleaner on limestone or basalt paving – the acid will react with the stone and cause permanent damage.
5. What’s the best way to remove organic marks or general dirt and grime from my natural stone paving?
For general dirt or organic marks like grass stains, mud etc. we recommend Lithofin Outdoor Cleaner. Just dilute, apply and jet-wash off as per the instructions on the bottle.
When cleaning your stone, you will find that a jet-wash (possibly in conjunction with a chemical cleaning agent, like Lithofin Outdoor Cleaner) will give the best results. This is because dirt particles enter the pores of the stone, and the mechanical action of the jet-wash is needed to lift them out. Just don’t hold the jet-wash too close to the surface of the stone; otherwise, you may cause etch marks. 500-600mm away is perfect. Discover more on the best way to use a jet wash.
6. How can I remove cement or stubborn marks from my natural stone paving?
Cement is notoriously difficult to remove once it’s dry, since it becomes engrained in the pores of the stone. So, as spills happen during installation or pointing, it’s much better to clean them away immediately with clean water and a sponge.
For stubborn marks or cement-based stains, Lithofin Builders’ Clean is a good choice. It is acid-based, though, and so MUST NOT be used on limestone or basalt products. Discover more the best cleaners for stone paving, including Dry Treat Alkaline Cleaner, which can be used on limestone, and why acid-based cleaners should be used with care on all stone.
When cleaning your stone, you will find that a jet-wash (possibly in conjunction with a chemical cleaning agent, like Lithofin Builders’ Clean) will give the best results. This is because dirt particles enter the pores of the stone, and the mechanical action of the jet-wash is needed to lift them out. Just don’t hold the jet-wash too close to the surface of the stone; otherwise, you may cause etch marks. 500-600mm away is perfect. Discover more on the best way to use a jet wash.
7. How do I prevent algae growth on my patio?
Algae growth on patios can be unsightly and slippery, posing a safety risk. To prevent algae from taking hold, follow these practical tips:
Improve sunlight exposure: North-facing gardens are particularly susceptible to algae, which thrives in damp, shaded areas. If possible, cut overhanging branches to increase sunlight on your patio. This helps dry out the surface and prevents algae growth.
Ensure proper drainage: Sitting water promotes algae and moss growth. Ensure your patio slopes slightly away from your house or garden to facilitate proper drainage and prevent water pooling.
Clean regularly: Routinely sweep and wash your patio to remove dirt and organic matter that algae thrive on. A regular cleaning programme will significantly reduce the likelihood of algae establishing.
Seal the patio: Applying a sealant to your paving slabs prevents water being absorbed into the pores of the material and will reduce algae growth.
Check for leaks: Ensure there are no leaks from gutters or downpipes that could be contributing to excess moisture on your patio.
Find more information on preventing algal growth on your patio on our blog.
8. My stone is sealed but the surface is marked with footprints. I’ve hosed down the stone, but they won’t come off – why?
Sealing your stone will help to protect against permanent stains and will make cleaning much easier in comparison to unsealed stone. However, it will not stop marks from appearing or make the stone ‘self-cleaning’.
Dry Treat—the stone sealant we recommend—is an impregnator. This means it coats the particles of the stone to around 6mm beneath the surface and leaves the pores of the stone open. Lesser quality, topical sealants coat the entire surface of the slab like a varnish. This surface coat often causes an unsightly sheen and can wear away very quickly, especially in areas that get a lot of foot traffic. Discover more about the differences between topical and impregnating sealants on our blog.
Being an impregnator is what makes Dry Treat such a long-lasting and cost-effective solution. The fact that the pores remain open allows the stone to breathe, but it means that mud from animal prints or rubber from shoe soles can become engrained in the pores of the stone and will need to be jet-washed to lift the dirt particles out.
On pale and porous products, in particular, the first couple of marks on the stone will stand out, since the product is brand-new and completely clean. Rather than rushing to jet-wash the stone, we advise that you allow it to weather in a little bit. Over time, exposed to the elements, the marks will become less noticeable and the odd footprint or mark will not stand out. You can then begin a regular cleaning regime that involves jet-washing the stone, possibly in conjunction with a chemical cleaning agent, once or twice a year.
FAQs — Ethics
Are London Stone's products ethically sourced?
Yes they are. It's very important to us and something that we are firmly committed to. All of the foreign suppliers we work with comply with the ETI Base Code. We work closely with them and support them to continually improve the conditions for workers. We pay regular visits to their production sites and also work collaboratively with other stone companies to improve conditions in the broader supply chain. For more details on our ethical policies, please contact steven@londonstone.co.uk
What constitutes ethically sourced stone?
The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) have established a base code for ETI members to adhere too. Although not formally enshrined in UK, European or International law, the ETI base code is the ethical standard that companies use as guidance to source products in an ethically compliant way. The ETI Base Code:
- Employment is freely chosen.
- Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected.
- Working conditions are safe and hygienic.
- Child labour shall not be used.
- Living wages are paid.
- Working hours are not excessive.
- No discrimination is practiced.
- Regular employment is provided.
- No harsh or inhumane treatment is allowed.
What are the main issues effecting working conditions in foreign supply chains?
Child labour is the single biggest issue that has gained the most attention in Western societies but there are many more issues that affect workers in the supply chains of developing countries. Unsafe working conditions, low wages, bonded labour and discrimination are all prevalent in foreign supply chains.
What can UK and Western suppliers do to improve conditions for workers in their foreign supply chains?
The most important thing that a supplier can do is to understand the tiered structure of a foreign supply chain. London Stone source our Indian Sandstone products from Tier 1 suppliers. We regularly visit these Tier 1 suppliers and the working conditions are good. But where do our Tier 1 suppliers source from? This is the question to ask because conditions further down the supply chains, in the stock yards of Tier 2 and the quarries of Tier 3 are completely different to what we see in Tier 1. Only by understanding the complex structure of supply chains can we identify where we can focus our efforts on addressing child labour, unsafe working conditions, low wages, bonded labour and discrimination.
What can clients do?
Clients, especially trade clients can make a real difference in the fight to improve conditions for workers in foreign supply chains. If you buy or specify natural stone, ask your stone suppliers about what they are doing to improve conditions for workers, challenge them to prove that they are sourcing products ethically. Talk to your customers too, educate them about the human cost of buying cheap natural stone that has been sourced without any regard for the welfare of workers. It doesn't sound like much, but talking about the issues at every opportunity and supporting suppliers who source their products ethically does create leverage for change.
Is ethical stone more expensive?
The headline is that yes, sourcing stone ethically does cost more money. Delve a little deeper though and it becomes immediately obvious that sourcing ethically offers long term value for the consumer, the worker who makes the stone and for society in general. For the consumer, stone sourced ethically is produced to better quality standards and so offers better value over the life cycle of the product. It’s also safe to assume that ethically sourced stone will benefit from the other positive elements associated with a professional supply chain such as: reliability, good communication and careful packaging. A worker manufacturing stone in an ethical supply chain, can expect to be paid a living wage and to be able to work reasonable hours in safe and hygienic working conditions. This is beneficial to the individual workers health and the long-term health and social welfare of his/her family. As for the wider society, a society that properly values the welfare of all the people within it is a healthier place for everyone.
Why don’t we just walk away from imported stone and buy British Stone?
One word and unfortunately, it’s a dirty one, money! Let’s go back 25 years. A client looking to install a natural stone patio would have been faced with an extremely limited choice of materials to use. Yorkstone and Welsh Slate were about as far as the choice extended to and both materials were prohibitively expensive, way beyond the budget of the majority of people in the UK. Indian Sandstone then came to our shores and this opened the floodgates for many other types of stone to be imported into the UK for use in the garden. Imported natural stone has given landscapers and designers an amazing choice of materials to use in designing and building gardens. As long as imported stone is so much cheaper than British Stone there will always be a demand for it and we’ll never be able to walk away from it. So, imported Sandstone is here to stay which means that UK suppliers and consumers need to be at the forefront in improving conditions for workers. From both a moral and business point of view, using our expertise and experience to help improve working conditions in foreign supply chains is the right thing to do.
FAQs — Returns
There is an issue with my product. What should I do?
If you think there is any issue with a product, please contact us in the first instance. It becomes more difficult to deal with product issues once the product has been installed. If you feel that there is an issue with the product prior to installation, yet you go ahead and install the product, you are accepting the goods and you may have less recourse for a complaint if raising the issue afterwards.
If there has been a mistake with your order, the material arrives to site damaged, is faulty, not fit for purpose or not as described you have 30 days from the day of delivery to arrange a return.
If there is an issue with your product then London Stone will collect the material at our own cost.
Can I return London Stone products if I don’t like them or have just changed my mind?
You have the right to cancel up to 14 days from the date of delivery, for orders placed either online or over the phone. As long as the products are returned in the same condition and the original packaging as they were supplied you will receive a full refund or exchange for the materials. The only exception to this is bespoke or pre-sealed items, they cannot be returned.
If you exercise your right to cancel within 14 days, you will be responsible for returning the material to the London Stone depot. We can collect the material ourselves, but this will incur a collection cost. Speak to a member of our team for further information.
We will issue your refund within 14 days of the goods being returned.
Do London Stone charge re-stocking fees?
If you are a retail customer you will not be charged a re-stocking fee for any goods returned within the 14 day period. If you are a trade customer you would incur a re-stocking fee of 20%.
FAQs — Environment
What are London Stones policies on the environment?
We will conduct all our business in an ethical, transparent manner and be as environmental friendly as is practically possible.
What certifications or standards are you following in your environmental journey?
ISO 14001 Environmental Management - We are working towards accreditation for conformity to this standard which provides a framework for managing and improving our environmental performance, including reducing our waste, conserving resources, and reducing our carbon footprint.
ISO 14064-1:2018 Greenhouse Gases - Our Quantification and Reporting of Greenhouse Gases conforms to this internationally recognised standard.
By following these certifications and standards, we can ensure that our journey is transparent, credible, and aligned with industry best practices.
What role do customers play in the larger effort to combat climate change?
Customers play a critical role in the larger effort to combat climate change. Consumers have significant power to drive change through their purchasing decisions, and by choosing products and services that are more sustainable and environmentally friendly, they can help reduce greenhouse gas emissions and support a transition towards a low-carbon economy. Additionally, customers can advocate for climate action by using their voice to raise awareness and demand action from businesses and policymakers. By engaging in sustainable behaviours such as reducing energy consumption and waste, customers can also help reduce their own carbon footprint and inspire others. We believe that individual actions can have a collective impact, and by working together with our customers, we can create a more sustainable future for all.
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